They marched in President Barack Obama's 2009 inauguration parade.
她們參加了巴拉克·奧巴馬總統(tǒng)2009年的就職游行。
They appeared at processions ranging from the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City and Disney's Easter Parade in Orlando, Fla., to the Rose Bowl Parade in Pasadena, Calif.
從紐約市的梅西感恩節(jié)游行到佛羅里達(dá)州奧蘭多的迪斯尼復(fù)活節(jié)游行,再到加利福尼亞州帕薩迪納市舉行的玫瑰碗游行,她們都出現(xiàn)在游行隊(duì)伍中。
They are the Azalea Trail Maids — the embodiment of old school Southern hospitality with a modern twist.
她們是杜鵑花道女傭-老派南方人的熱情加上現(xiàn)代特色的化身。
Photographer Adair Rutledge, a native of Mobile, Ala., returned to her hometown to learn more about how some girls are redefining what it means to be a symbol of the South — while they wear a 50-pound, custom-made antebellum dress.
攝影師阿黛爾·拉特利奇是阿拉巴馬州莫比爾人,她回到家鄉(xiāng)后,想了解更多關(guān)于一些女孩如何重新定義南方人的象征——她們穿上了50磅重的戰(zhàn)前定制連衣裙。
To be one of the 50 Azalea Trail Maids, you have to be chosen — and only those with impressive resumes get the honor.
要成為50名杜鵑花道女傭之一,你必須參加選拔——只有那些有令人印象深刻的簡歷的人才能獲此殊榮。
The girls Rutledge profiled were valedictorians, National Merit Scholarship winners and even in ROTC.
拉特利奇拍攝的這些女孩分別是畢業(yè)演講家、國家優(yōu)秀獎(jiǎng)學(xué)金獲得者,甚至是后備役軍官訓(xùn)練隊(duì)的成員。
And the interview process is extensive.
面試是很全面的。
"A lot of them take classes and rehearse for years," Rutledge says.
“她們中很多人都會(huì)去上課,并且經(jīng)過多年的排練,”拉特利奇說道。
The selective process and preparation is meant to prepare them to be ambassadors for their town — a modern version of the Southern belle.
選拔和準(zhǔn)備過程都是為了把她們打造成自己家鄉(xiāng)的形象大使——現(xiàn)代版的南方淑女。
Once chosen, they represent Mobile for a year.
一旦入選,她們可以擔(dān)任一年的大使。
When wearing the dresses, which can cost up to $6,000, they usually don't speak; their duty is to smile, wave and have their photo taken.
當(dāng)穿著價(jià)值高達(dá)6000美元的禮服時(shí),她們通常不會(huì)說話;他們的職責(zé)是微笑、揮手和拍照。
Rutledge hopes her project will help people work through what seem like contradictions: very accomplished women wearing Southern plantation-era gowns while representing Alabama's third-largest city.
拉特利奇希望她的照片能幫助人們適應(yīng)一些看似矛盾的問題:穿著南方種植園時(shí)代的大裙子、同時(shí)又代表阿拉巴馬州第三大城市的多才多藝的女性。
"There's sort of a disconnect between what the dress represents historically and these multicultural, highly accomplished modern young women who wear it now," she says.
她說:“從歷史上看,這條裙子所代表的含義與如今穿著它的這些多元文化、成就卓著的現(xiàn)代年輕女性之間存在某種脫節(jié)。”
"They're not exact replicas, but they are modeled after the attire of the white Southern plantation-era elite, which means that they are the gowns that were once worn by the wives of slave owners. ... I really want people to be asking these questions around gender and identity and race and the tensions that are created from being a young Southern black woman wearing an antebellum hoop skirt."
“它們不是完全的復(fù)制品,但它們是模仿南方種植園時(shí)代白人精英的服裝,也就是說,它們是奴隸主妻子曾經(jīng)穿過的長袍。...我真的想讓人去關(guān)注到問這些關(guān)于性別、身份、種族的問題,以及作為一名穿著戰(zhàn)前箍裙的年輕南方黑人女性所帶來的沖擊?!?/p>
But it is also important to see each Trail Maid as their own person, Rutledge says.
拉特利奇說,同樣重要的是,要把每個(gè)杜鵑花道女傭看作是他們自己人。
"With this project I looked at not just the tradition, but the girls that operate within the tradition and who they are as individuals," she added, giving the example of one Trail Maid who switches from wearing the dress to putting on an ROTC uniform on a daily basis.
“通過這個(gè)項(xiàng)目,我不僅看到了傳統(tǒng),還看到了在傳統(tǒng)中運(yùn)作的女孩們,以及她們作為個(gè)體的個(gè)性,”她補(bǔ)充道,還舉了一個(gè)例子,一個(gè)花道女傭每天都要從穿裙子變成穿后備軍官訓(xùn)練隊(duì)制服。
And just like how the tradition has changed throughout time, so has the meaning of the dress.
就像傳統(tǒng)隨著時(shí)間的推移而改變一樣,服裝的意義也在改變。
One of the biggest changes to the Trail Maids over the past 50 years is the group welcoming different races.
在過去的50年里,步道女仆最大的變化之一就是開始?xì)g迎不同種族的團(tuán)體。
Rutledge says there are no official records of when the first black girl was part of the Azalea Trail Maids, but from conversations she's had with older generations and looking at photos, she guesses it was around the 1970s.
拉特利奇說,關(guān)于第一個(gè)黑人女孩何時(shí)成為杜鵑花步道女傭的尚無官方記錄,但從她與老一輩人的交談和照片來看,她猜測那是在20世紀(jì)70年代左右。
Some of the black Trail Maids explained to Rutledge how they changed the narrative and took back a tradition that was once off limits to them.
一些黑人花道女傭向拉特利奇解釋了她們是如何改寫了歷史,讓曾經(jīng)不招黑人的傳統(tǒng)發(fā)生變化的。
"I tried out for Trail for all the little black girls who wanted a dress like that, but they were slaves and they couldn't have one," Kaycee Tate, valedictorian of her high school graduating class, told Rutledge.
“我去花道面試是為了那些想穿這樣的裙子,但因?yàn)樗齻兪桥`而沒法穿的人,”凱西·泰特告訴拉特利奇,她曾是高中畢業(yè)班致告別辭的學(xué)生代表。
"If you were to tell a little black girl who was picking cotton, you know back in the day, 'Hey, in a few hundred years maybe you'll get to wear a dress like that too,' no one would believe you. So I'm kind of a testament to times have changed."
“如果你告訴一個(gè)摘棉花的黑人小女孩,你知道,在過去的日子里,'嘿,再過幾百年,也許你也會(huì)穿那樣的裙子’,沒有人會(huì)相信你。所以我可以說是時(shí)代變遷的見證者?!?/p>
Jamie Lim, a Korean American who was previously a Trail Maid, wrote her college essay on wanting to be part of the organization because she hadn't seen many who looked like her represented in the group.
杰米林是一名韓裔美國人,之前也是一名花道女傭,她在大學(xué)時(shí)寫過一篇論文,內(nèi)容是想成為這個(gè)組織的一員,因?yàn)樗谶@個(gè)組織中沒有見過很多像她這樣的人。
Rutledge stressed that through the tensions, for all the girls, this custom is about friendship and camaraderie.
拉特利奇強(qiáng)調(diào),對(duì)于所有的女孩來說,這種習(xí)俗是關(guān)于友誼和友情的。
Her photos show this — from a picture of a few girls taking a selfie to one of a group hanging out at Waffle House.
她的照片顯示了這一點(diǎn)——從幾個(gè)女孩自拍的照片到在華夫餅屋閑逛的一群人的照片。
And she isn't finished with this project yet.
她的拍攝計(jì)劃還沒有完成。
While most of the girls went off to college, she is still in touch with some of them and plans to photograph them when they are home in May to see where they are now.
雖然大多數(shù)女孩都上了大學(xué),但她仍與其中一些女孩保持著聯(lián)系,并計(jì)劃在5月份她們回家時(shí)給她們拍照,看看她們現(xiàn)在在哪里。
She hopes the end result of this project will be a multimedia piece where individuals can hear the girls' voices behind the images.
她希望這個(gè)項(xiàng)目的最終結(jié)果是一個(gè)多媒體作品,在這個(gè)作品中,每個(gè)人都能聽到照片背后女孩們的聲音。
"I wanted to be sure that I was showing this blend of empathy and also a sense of humor and beauty and color, but at the same time, calling into question some of the cultural forces that have placed them where they are."
“我想要確定自己是在展示這種同理心、幽默感、美感和色彩的融合,但與此同時(shí),也讓人們關(guān)注到一些文化力量,正是這些文化力量將她們置于現(xiàn)在的位置?!?/p>
But ultimately, Rutledge wants her project to foster a discussion of how tradition plays out in the modern world.
但最終,拉特利奇希望她的項(xiàng)目能促進(jìn)對(duì)傳統(tǒng)如何在現(xiàn)代世界中發(fā)揮作用的討論。
— 問題 —
文中提到這種裙子一條造價(jià)大約多少?
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