挪用中國(guó)文化卻標(biāo)榜為原創(chuàng)
“借鑒了但不承認(rèn)”,這是令絕大多數(shù)網(wǎng)友感到憤怒的關(guān)鍵。
這條標(biāo)價(jià)2.9萬(wàn)人民幣(約4295美元)的迪奧裙子,不論是設(shè)計(jì)還是上身效果,與中國(guó)的漢服馬面裙有著令人驚訝的相似。
B站up主七十二煙塵將2022年迪奧裙子與中國(guó)漢服商家2019年生產(chǎn)的秋季馬面裙放在一起對(duì)比,發(fā)現(xiàn)兩條裙子幾乎一模一樣。
中國(guó)漢服商家生產(chǎn)的馬面裙(左) 迪奧裙(右) 來(lái)源:B站up主 七十二煙塵
然而,這條裙子卻在迪奧的官網(wǎng)簡(jiǎn)介里,被稱(chēng)為采用了“標(biāo)志性的Dior廓形”。
裙子的產(chǎn)品說(shuō)明 來(lái)源:迪奧官網(wǎng)
文化抄襲?不,中國(guó)網(wǎng)友提到了一個(gè)詞“文化挪用”。這就是赤裸裸地將別人的東西說(shuō)成是自己的。
Cultural plagiarism? No, Dior is nakedly claiming another culture’s garments as its own. So, let’s call this thing by its real name: theft.
中國(guó)文化從來(lái)都是開(kāi)放包容的,如果迪奧在這條裙子的簡(jiǎn)介上注明“靈感來(lái)自中國(guó)馬面裙”或者坦誠(chéng)一點(diǎn),直接說(shuō)這是馬面裙,中國(guó)網(wǎng)友還會(huì)這么憤怒嘛?相反,我們可能還會(huì)為中國(guó)的服飾文化走向世界而感到欣喜。
Chinese culture has always been open and tolerant. If Dior marked, "inspired by a Chinese horse-faced skirt", or had the sensitivity and honesty to openly call it a horse-faced skirt, would Chinese netizens still be so angry? No, we would be delighted to see China’s culture inspiring the world.
但是迪奧偏偏如此傲慢,稱(chēng) “這款半裙采用標(biāo)志性的Dior廓形,是一款全新的優(yōu)雅時(shí)尚的單品” 。這樣的做法,不僅狹隘,而且與迪奧此前的處事風(fēng)格大相徑庭。
吃飯?jiān)义?/strong>
迪奧事件本質(zhì)上是不尊重中國(guó)市場(chǎng)
根據(jù)迪奧官網(wǎng)顯示,包括精品店、零售商、餐廳、展覽館在內(nèi),迪奧在中國(guó)一共有41家分店。根據(jù)迪奧的母公司LVMH集團(tuán)2022年發(fā)布的年報(bào),除日本以外的亞洲市場(chǎng)已經(jīng)成為L(zhǎng)VMH集團(tuán)最大的收入來(lái)源,占集團(tuán)收入的35%。
毫無(wú)疑問(wèn),中國(guó)市場(chǎng)對(duì)LVMH集團(tuán)一年642.2億歐元(約699億美元)的營(yíng)業(yè)收入有著巨大貢獻(xiàn)。但是他們卻絲毫沒(méi)有將中國(guó)這樣一個(gè)巨大的消費(fèi)市場(chǎng)放在眼里。
But Dior did not pay any attention to China’s huge consumer market.
那么,迪奧是怎么對(duì)待其他國(guó)家呢?據(jù)悉,售賣(mài)這件裙子的Dior韓國(guó)首爾專(zhuān)賣(mài)店在裝飾上融合了法國(guó)與韓國(guó)文化,為此, 迪 奧還 特意發(fā)了一條推特宣傳。
然而,這邊卻絕口不提對(duì)于中國(guó)文化元素的借鑒。
從一開(kāi)始只下架中國(guó)區(qū)域內(nèi)的抄襲商品,到現(xiàn)在還沒(méi)有對(duì)相關(guān)事件發(fā)表任何聲明或致歉,甚至關(guān)閉了迪奧官方賬號(hào)在中國(guó)社交媒體微博的評(píng)論……以上種種行為都透露出一個(gè)信息:高端奢侈品牌迪奧對(duì)于中國(guó)文化和中國(guó)市場(chǎng)沒(méi)有絲毫的尊重。
Chinese cultural elements is never mentioned in the endorsement, and even now, there is no official statement or apology from by Dior. Even the comments area on the Chinese social media platform, Weibo, of Dior's official account are turned off. Through these behaviors, I have seen that Dior, a high-end luxury brand, has no respect for Chinese culture and the Chinese market.
對(duì)中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)服飾文化的傷害不止于此
文化本就是流動(dòng)和發(fā)展的。中國(guó)有許許多多美好的傳統(tǒng)文化,我們歡迎全世界各國(guó)的喜愛(ài)和使用,但如果是毫無(wú)誠(chéng)意的“偷盜”,我們絕不能容忍,因?yàn)檫@樣造成的后果是難以估量的。
作為一個(gè)國(guó)際知名的品牌,迪奧的影響力無(wú)疑是巨大的, 它的產(chǎn)品設(shè)計(jì)和宣傳會(huì)無(wú)形地影響到全球消費(fèi)者的認(rèn)知,當(dāng)他們腦海當(dāng)中已經(jīng)植入馬面裙就是迪奧的原創(chuàng)設(shè)計(jì)的概念后,迪奧行為的害處就不僅僅體現(xiàn)在對(duì)于中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)服飾文化的傷害上了。
As an internationally renowned brand, Dior's influence is undoubtedly huge. Its product design and publicity will invisibly affect the cognition of consumers around the world. After they have implanted the horse-faced skirt as Dior's original design in their minds, the harmful result of Dior's behavior will emerge, not only by undermining Chinese culture, but also putting buyers in a position where they are, in fact, wearing a lie.
這里,我們想對(duì)所有的海內(nèi)外網(wǎng)友說(shuō):
想象一下多年以后,你穿著花高價(jià)購(gòu)買(mǎi)的迪奧“原創(chuàng)設(shè)計(jì)長(zhǎng)裙”,正興高采烈地走在街上,卻被認(rèn)識(shí)這條裙子設(shè)計(jì)的人指出“這不是中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)的漢服嗎”,而你卻對(duì)此一無(wú)所知時(shí),尷尬的究竟是自以為花高價(jià)購(gòu)買(mǎi)了原創(chuàng)設(shè)計(jì)的你,還是早已經(jīng)賺得盆滿(mǎn)缽滿(mǎn)的迪奧呢?
Imagine that many years later, you are wearing a Dior "original design skirt" that you bought at a high price, and you are walking on the street cheerfully, but someone who knows the design of this skirt points out "isn't this a traditional Chinese hanfu?", but you know nothing about it. Isn’t that embarrassing? And who will be more embarrassed? You, who bought the original design at a very high price, or Dior who has already made a lot of money?
記者:陳燁 視頻:陳燁 攝像:王韋翰
聯(lián)系客服