Chinese traditional dress -- Ming and Qing Dynasties
明太祖朱元璋稱帝后，為了恢復(fù)漢族的禮儀，便制定了以周、漢、唐、宋為準(zhǔn)則的新服飾制度，禁胡服，恢復(fù)漢族服飾習(xí)俗，以袍衫為主要服飾，朝臣百官的官帽衣履，也恢復(fù)了傳統(tǒng)朝服、祭服、公服、常服的設(shè)立，明朝服制中銹繪龍飾的袍服，沿承前制為帝王專用。
After Zhu Yuanzhang became the emperor of Ming Dynasty, in order to restore the etiquette of the Han nationality, he formulated a new dress system based on the principles of Zhou, Han, Tang and Song Dynasties and banned clothing style of the ethnic minorities, restoring the Han clothing custom which takes the robe as the main dress. Moreover, the clothing of officials also followed the tradition to be divided into court clothing, sacrificial clothing, public clothing, and ordinary clothing and the robe with embroidered dragon was made for the emperor's special use.
明朝由于皇帝姓朱，于是以朱為正色，又因 《論語》有“惡紫之奪朱也”，紫色因此從官服中廢除不用，官員以補(bǔ)服為常服，頭戴烏紗帽。
In the Ming Dynasty, the surname of the emperor was Zhu, which represents the red color. Therefor, red was regarded as the most nobel color. Since there is a saying that ' Purple is hated for taking away the luster and status of red ' in the Analects of Confucius, purple was abolished from official clothing usage. Officials used Bufu as the ordinary clothing, wearing the black gauze cap.
所謂補(bǔ)服，是指在前胸喝后背各補(bǔ)有一塊刺繡圖案。文官的補(bǔ)子用飛禽，武官用走獸，各分九等，用袍衫顏色和圖案的分別來區(qū)分官階品位。
As for Bufu, it refers to a kind of official clothes with a piece of embroidery pattern on both the front chest and back. Civil officials used fowls for their patterns, while military officials used beasts and all the animals were divided into nine ranks, together with the different clothing color, to distinguish the official grades.
明代男子最常見的便是“道袍”，道袍又稱褶子，也叫青海，是大襟、寬袖、長(zhǎng)度過膝的袍衫，尤其以明中后期最為流行。道袍的領(lǐng)口通常綴有白色的護(hù)領(lǐng)，既能保護(hù)衣領(lǐng)又方便拆換，道袍為日常穿著，既可用作外衣，也可作為衫袍，因?yàn)榻S、紫而以青、黑色為主，勞動(dòng)大眾只許用褐色。
The most common dress for men in the Ming Dynasty is 'Dao pao', also known as pleated, and Qinghai, which is a robe with a large front, wide sleeves and length over the knee, especially popular in the middle and late Ming Dynasty. The collar of the Dao pao is usually decorated with a white collar, which can keep the collar clean and was easy to change. For daily wear, the Dao pao can be used either as a coat or as a robe. Since yellow and purple are forbidden to wear except the emperor, blue and black are mainly used, while the working people are only allowed to wear brown.
圖片來源：微信公眾號(hào)——傳統(tǒng)服飾
明代女裝主要裝束仍是褙子、衫、襖、襦、裙子，衣服的基本樣式大多仿自唐宋，一般都為右衽，恢復(fù)了漢族的習(xí)俗.
The main costume for women in the Ming Dynasty is still similar to the previous dynasties. The basic style of clothes is mostly imitated from the Tang and Song dynasties, and generally The left front is pressed against the right front, restoring the custom of the Han nationality.
明代由于婦女盛行纏足，又追求“行不露足”所以貴族婦女都穿長(zhǎng)裙來掩飾金蓮小腳，腰帶上往往上一根以絲帶編成的“宮絳”，借以壓裙輻，使其不致于散開影響美觀，作用與宋代的玉環(huán)綬相似.
In the Ming Dynasty, due to the prevalence of foot binding among women and the pursuit of 'walking without showing feet', noblewomen wore long skirts to hide the small feet which was called golden lotus. And there was often a ribbon tied around the waist called “Gong tao” to suppress the skirt so as to prevent them from spreading and affecting the beauty. The role of the ribbon is similar to that of the jade ring in the Song Dynasty.
清王朝是中國(guó)最后一個(gè)封建王朝，在服飾上也是改變最大的一個(gè)時(shí)代，清代服飾是中國(guó)古代服飾與近代服飾的交接點(diǎn)，它的存在是以后發(fā)展到近代男士長(zhǎng)袍馬褂，女士旗袍的前提。
The Qing Dynasty is the last feudal dynasty in China, and also an era with the biggest changes in clothing. The Qing Dynasty clothing is the junction of ancient Chinese clothing and modern Chinese clothing, whose existence is the premise of the development of modern men's robes and jackets, and women's cheongsam.
清初，滿族統(tǒng)治者以暴力手段，推行剃發(fā)易服法令，按滿族習(xí)俗強(qiáng)令漢族男子按滿族習(xí)俗改變發(fā)式，剃去前額部分的發(fā)飾，把腦后頭發(fā)編成辮子。漢族傳統(tǒng)服飾受到相當(dāng)大的沖擊，并最終被滿族服飾所取代。
In the early Qing Dynasty, the Manchu rulers used violent means to enforce the law of shaving hair and changing clothes. According to the Manchu custom, they forced the Han men to change their hairstyle, shaving the hair on the forehead and braiding the hair at the back of the head. The traditional dress of Han nationality was greatly affected and was replaced by Manchu dress eventually.
清代后期，滿族效仿漢族的風(fēng)氣日盛，甚至史書有大半旗裝改漢裝，宮袍截作短衣裳的記載，但是，由于滿族統(tǒng)治者堅(jiān)持本民族特色的服飾制度，視為固國(guó)之本，所以清代數(shù)百年來始終以滿族傳統(tǒng)服飾為基本模式，形成了以滿族服飾為主體的衣制。
In the later period of the Qing Dynasty, the Manchu people became more and more popular in imitating the Han people. It is even recorded in the history that most of the Manchu people changed their ethical dress into Han dress and cut their palace robes into shorter clothes. However, since the Manchu rulers insisted on the dress system with Manchu national characteristics, regarding it as the foundation of the country, for hundreds of years in the Qing Dynasty, traditional Manchu clothing was always the basic model, forming a clothing system with Manchu clothing as the main body.
清代官服主要為長(zhǎng)袍馬褂，補(bǔ)子的鳥獸紋樣和等級(jí)順序與明朝大同小異。清代平民男子也常穿長(zhǎng)袍馬褂，款式與官服有所不同，馬褂是穿在長(zhǎng)袍外面的短褂，長(zhǎng)度只到腰際，短衣短袖便于騎馬，所以叫馬褂。
Official clothing in Qing Dynasty was mainly robes and mandarin jacket, and the pattern of the Buzi and hierarchical order were similar with the Ming Dynasty. While civilian men wore long robes and mandarin jackets too, which were different in style from official uniforms. The mandarin jacket was a short jacket with a length only to the waist. The short jacket and short sleeves were convenient for riding horses, so it was also called “Horse Clothe”.
滿族婦女的典型裝飾為衣裳連屬的旗人長(zhǎng)袍，即旗袍。清代滿族旗袍與后世旗袍有很大區(qū)別，但后世旗袍是在滿人這種長(zhǎng)袍基礎(chǔ)之上發(fā)展而來的。下擺的長(zhǎng)度多蓋住腳面，只露出鞋底。因?yàn)闈h人的衣冠傳統(tǒng)是根深蒂固的,清政府寬允漢族婦女沿襲明代的服飾，因此，清代漢族婦女的服飾變化比男服要少，以披風(fēng)、襖裙為主。披風(fēng)是清代婦女的外套，作用與男褂相似，顏色以紅為貴。
The typical decoration of Manchu women is the cheongsam. The cheongsam of the Manchu nationality in the Qing Dynasty is very different from that of the later generations, but the later cheongsam was developed on the basis of this kind of robe. The length of the lower hem covers the feet, only showing the sole of the shoe. Because the dressing tradition of Han nationality was deeply rooted, the Qing government allowed the Han women to follow the clothing of the Ming Dynasty. That’s why the changes of the Han women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty were less than that of the men, mainly cape, jacket and skirt. The cloak is a woman's coat in the Qing Dynasty, whose function is similar to that of the male coat, and the most noble color was red.
清末，在普通婦女中間，還流行穿褲裝，同時(shí)，旗袍也為漢族中的貴婦所仿用，滿漢服裝間的區(qū)別已經(jīng)很模糊。
In the late Qing Dynasty, pantsuits became popular among ordinary women. At the same time, cheongsam was also imitated by noblewomen in the Han nationality. The distinction between Manchu and Han clothing was blurred.
總體來看，清代服飾盡管在外觀形式上摒棄了許多傳統(tǒng)的基本形制，但其內(nèi)在卻并沒有改變，其精神實(shí)質(zhì)與中華民族服飾文化是一脈相承的，它既體現(xiàn)了本民族的習(xí)俗特征，又保留了數(shù)千年遺留下來的等級(jí)制內(nèi)容。
On the whole, although the Qing Dynasty costumes abandoned many traditional basic shapes and systems in the appearance form, their inner nature did not change. Their spiritual essence was in line with the Chinese costume culture, which not only reflected the custom characteristics of the nation, but also retained the hierarchical content left over from thousands of years.
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