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澳門大亨入主法國酒堡
澳門博彩業(yè)經(jīng)理人吳志誠在勃艮第收購一個歷史葡萄園之舉在法國激起了強(qiáng)烈反感。他承諾至少投資800萬歐元來恢復(fù)這塊產(chǎn)業(yè)往日的輝煌。
 
  • 釀酒工作將交給埃里克·魯索管理,他將租下土地、打理葡萄園,同時把三分之一的產(chǎn)量交給吳志誠。預(yù)計(jì)這個葡萄園一年的產(chǎn)量在一萬瓶到1.2萬瓶之間。

  • 圖為吉夫瑞·香白丹(Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin)酒莊外景。據(jù)吉夫瑞·香白丹釀酒商聯(lián)合會主席讓-米切爾·吉永(Jean-Michel Guillon)說,這座建于12世紀(jì)的酒莊于今年早些時候以出人意料的800萬歐元賣給了來自澳門的博彩業(yè)大亨。

  • 在法國爆發(fā)不滿以來他首次接受媒體采訪時,吳志誠表示收購這個葡萄園是一筆充滿情感的投資。吳志誠在富豪何鴻燊創(chuàng)辦的酒店與賭場運(yùn)營商澳門博彩控股有限公司(SJM Holdings Ltd.)擔(dān)任營運(yùn)總裁。圖為吉夫瑞·香白丹酒莊內(nèi)景。

  • 吳志誠在一份聲明中說,該酒莊的翻修工作將由備受尊敬的法國建筑師拉波特(Christian Laporte)操刀。拉波特尤為擅長修復(fù)歷史建筑,與此同時,所有翻修方案都將經(jīng)過該地區(qū)專于保護(hù)項(xiàng)目的公司批準(zhǔn)。

  • 賣方的律師、波爾多頂級釀酒師埃里克·魯索(Eric Rousseau)和吳志誠在Chez Guy餐廳。吳志誠在早些時候的聲明中說:“我極其高興能請來埃里克,希望他的精湛的技藝和專長能讓這個酒莊重新生產(chǎn)出勃艮第最好的葡萄酒。”

  • 圖為釀酒師埃里克·魯索(左)、吉夫瑞·香白丹市長羅伯特(Jean-Claude Robert)和吳志誠合影。吳志誠對葡萄酒的滿腔熱情促使他與波爾多、勃艮第以及羅訥河谷的許多頂級釀酒師,還有各地聲名卓越的葡萄酒批發(fā)商及拍賣行建立了緊密而持久的關(guān)系。

  • 這座吉夫瑞·香白丹城堡位于法國東部,帶有2.3公頃的葡萄園。

  • 釀酒工作將交給埃里克·魯索管理,他將租下土地、打理葡萄園,同時把三分之一的產(chǎn)量交給吳志誠。預(yù)計(jì)這個葡萄園一年的產(chǎn)量在一萬瓶到1.2萬瓶之間。

  • 圖為吉夫瑞·香白丹(Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin)酒莊外景。據(jù)吉夫瑞·香白丹釀酒商聯(lián)合會主席讓-米切爾·吉永(Jean-Michel Guillon)說,這座建于12世紀(jì)的酒莊于今年早些時候以出人意料的800萬歐元賣給了來自澳門的博彩業(yè)大亨。

    門博彩業(yè)經(jīng)理人吳志誠(Louis Ng)在勃艮第收購了一個葡萄園之后,在法國引起了強(qiáng)烈反彈。他表示這種反應(yīng)出乎意料,承諾至少投資800萬歐元(1,000萬美元)來恢復(fù)這塊產(chǎn)業(yè)往日的輝煌。

    吳志誠表示他決心安撫自己的新鄰居。他在法國上周爆發(fā)不滿以來首次接受媒體采訪,表示收購這個葡萄園是一筆充滿情感的投資。吳志誠在富豪何鴻燊(Stanley Ho)創(chuàng)辦的酒店與賭場運(yùn)營商澳門博彩控股有限公司(SJM Holdings Ltd.)擔(dān)任營運(yùn)總裁。

    Jeff Pachoud/Agence France-Presse
    圖片:澳門大亨入主法國酒堡
    今年5月,六位香港投資人組團(tuán),以800萬歐元的價格買下建于12世紀(jì)的破敗酒莊吉夫瑞?香白丹(Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin)及2.3公頃的葡萄園。60歲的吳志誠是這個團(tuán)隊(duì)的牽頭人和最大股東。他持有澳博控股2.3%的股份,價值2.63億美元。作為亞洲地區(qū)葡萄酒愛好者當(dāng)中的一位知名藏家,吳志誠估計(jì)他在澳門多個工業(yè)倉庫共計(jì)存有25萬瓶葡萄酒,還聘請了四個人來管理這些藏品。

    這筆交易在5月份悄悄完成。但法國媒體上周發(fā)現(xiàn)買主是這位中國藏家,隨后這一消息在法國引起反彈。當(dāng)?shù)睾芏噢r(nóng)戶和政界人士擔(dān)心外國投資者會將講究技藝的小釀酒商擠出勃艮第,因此呼吁政府出面干預(yù)。

    午餐期間,吳志誠一邊啜飲2003年產(chǎn)的勃艮第白葡萄酒Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche(這是他最喜歡的葡萄酒之一),一邊說,現(xiàn)在我要做補(bǔ)救工作,我只想安撫鄰居們。他說,我們并沒有把它當(dāng)成賺錢工具,我沒有制定商業(yè)計(jì)劃。

    吳志誠說,他打算斥資800萬歐元用于翻新酒莊,已經(jīng)聘請了一位擅長古跡保護(hù)的法國建筑師。吳志誠說,酒莊的面積約10,800平方英尺(約1,000平方米),修復(fù)工作最長可能需要三年。他還說,修復(fù)完成之后,他希望能夠在莊園里消夏。

    就連法國政界人士也出來討論這次收購。來自勃艮第的法國工業(yè)部長阿諾?蒙特堡(Arnaud Montebourg)說,他很高興歡迎外來者進(jìn)入勃艮第。蒙特堡曾擔(dān)任多年的勃艮第民選代表。

    蒙特堡說,我歡迎外商對法國農(nóng)業(yè)和釀酒行業(yè)的投資,因?yàn)檫@有助于提高它們在全世界的知名度。法國政府曾經(jīng)承諾要在五年內(nèi)扭轉(zhuǎn)非能源部門的貿(mào)易逆差,所以在蒙特堡看來,農(nóng)業(yè)、釀酒業(yè)的投資對于政策的推行可能也是很有幫助的。

    但法國國內(nèi)一些釀酒商對一名外來富豪的進(jìn)入并沒有如此激動。釀酒商讓-米切爾?吉永(Jean-Michel Guillon)曾率領(lǐng)一個團(tuán)體,試圖以500萬歐元的價格買下吉夫瑞?香白丹酒莊。他堅(jiān)決反對吳志誠的收購,呼吁政府出面干預(yù)。吉永說,外國人在中國是不能夠買土地的,同理,我們在法國也應(yīng)該禁止外國人購地。

    Christine Hong
    澳門博彩業(yè)經(jīng)理人吳志誠(右)和釀酒師埃里克?魯索。
    吉永堅(jiān)稱其反對是基于經(jīng)濟(jì)理由,無關(guān)種族。他擔(dān)心大量外資涌入會推高葡萄園的價格,使他在把自己的葡萄園留給子女時付不起轉(zhuǎn)讓稅。法國政府是根據(jù)上一年房地產(chǎn)交易的平均價格來確定轉(zhuǎn)讓稅的。

    與吳志誠勃艮第酒莊同村的另一位釀酒商讓-馬里?富里耶(Jean-Marie Fourrier)說,他也對葡萄園價格的大幅上漲感到擔(dān)憂。他說,60年前一位農(nóng)戶賣掉一年的收成就能付清購買葡萄園的錢,現(xiàn)在同樣的土地要用50年的收成才能付清。他說,很多年輕一代不想一輩子都在還銀行的錢。

    其他一些觀察人士認(rèn)為吳志誠收購價太高,說這個葡萄園地理位置算是中等,產(chǎn)的葡萄質(zhì)量一般。

    勃艮第葡萄酒評論家、倫敦酒商Berry Bros. & Rudd采購員賈斯珀?莫里斯(Jasper Morris)說,不是中國人盜走了法國人的東西,而是法國人宰了中國人一筆;這并不是一筆了不起的產(chǎn)業(yè),我在想大家為什么還要如此大驚小怪。

    他說,酒莊的狀況非常糟,修好它將使吳志誠和整個村莊臉上有光。

    釀酒工作將交給波爾多頂級釀酒師埃里克?魯索(Eric Rousseau)管理,他將租下土地、打理葡萄園,同時把三分之一的產(chǎn)量交給吳志誠。預(yù)計(jì)這個葡萄園一年的產(chǎn)量在1萬瓶到1.2萬瓶之間。

    在香港的葡萄酒界,吳志誠這筆投資成了熱議的話題。80年代就開始收藏葡萄酒的香港退休律師張定球(Vincent Cheung)稱吳志誠是亞洲最大的藏家之一,有著非常成熟的品味。他表示吳志誠收購葡萄園是明智之舉,因?yàn)樵诓薜诘牡禺a(chǎn)上擁有一個酒莊實(shí)在少見。在波爾多,有著大面積生活區(qū)的葡萄園遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)多于勃艮第。

    吳志誠說,香港富豪恭喜他買下了這個葡萄園。他說,富豪們給我打電話,都說這是一筆相當(dāng)不錯的買賣。
2012年 09月 04日 09:09
Vineyard Buyer Pledges to Make Peace

Louis Ng, the Macau casino executive who faced a vitriolic backlash in France after he bought a vineyard in Burgundy, says the reaction was 'beyond expectations' and is pledging to pour at least 8 million ($10 million) into the estate to restore it to its former glory.

Mr. Ng, a multimillionaire, says he is determined to pacify his new neighbors. In his first interview with the media since the furor erupted in France last week, the chief operating officer of SJM Holdings Ltd., the hotels and casino company founded by tycoon Stanley Ho, said the purchase was an 'emotional investment.'

The 60-year-old Mr. Ng is the leader and largest shareholder of a group of six Hong Kong investors who in May paid 8 million for Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin, a run-down 12th-century residence along with 2.3 hectares of vines. A well-known collector among the region's wine lovers, Mr. Ng─who owns 2.3% of SJM Holdings, a stake valued at US$263 million─estimates he owns 250,000 bottles spread among several industrial warehouses in Macau and employs four people to handle his collection.

The deal was completed quietly in May. But when the French media uncovered the Chinese oenophile to be the buyer last week, a backlash ensued in France, with many local farmers and politicians calling on the government to intervene, fearing that wealthy foreign investors would push out the small, artisanal winemakers in the region.

'Now, I have remedial work. I just want to appease my neighbors,' said Mr. Ng over lunch, between sips of a 2003 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche, a Burgundy white wine that is among his favorites. 'We don't see this as a moneymaking vehicle,' he said. 'I don't have a business plan.'

Mr. Ng said he intends to spend 8 million on the renovations of the property and has employed a French architect who specializes in historical preservation. Work on the chateau, with about 10,800 square feet of space, could take as long as three years, Mr. Ng said. He added that he hopes to spend parts of his summer at the mansion after it is redone.

Even French politicians are weighing in on the purchase. French Industry Minister Arnaud Montebourg, who is from Burgundy, says he is happy to welcome outsiders to the region, where he was for years an elected representative.

'I'm in favor of foreign investment in French agriculture and winemaking, because it helps them shine around the world,' Mr. Mountebourg said. For the minister, whose government has pledged to reverse France's nonenergy trade deficit within five years, such investments could also prove helpful from a policy front.

But some local winemakers in France aren't so thrilled with the arrival of a rich outsider. Jean-Michel Guillon, a winemaker who led a group who tried to buy the property for 5 million, is staunchly opposed to the deal, calling on government to intervene. 'You can't buy land in China as a foreigner,' Mr. Guillon said. 'It's logical for us to do the same here in France.'

Mr. Guillon insists that the opposition is about economics, not ethnicity. He fears an influx of foreign capital will drive up the price of vineyards and make it difficult for him to pay the transfer tax when he passes his own to his children. The French government bases the transfer tax on the average price of the previous year's real-estate transactions.

Jean-Marie Fourrier, another winemaker in the same village as Mr. Ng's Burgundy estate, said he is also concerned about a spike in vineyard prices. Sixty years ago, a farmer could pay off the price of acquiring a vineyard from the proceeds of one harvest, he said. These days, the same land requires 50 years of work to pay it off. 'A lot of younger people don't want to be paying the bank for all of their life,' he said.

Other observers contend that Mr. Ng vastly overpaid for the estate, saying it grows mediocre vines in a middling location.

'It's not that the Chinese have stolen from the French, but the French seem to be ripping off the Chinese,' said Jasper Morris, a Burgundy wine critic and buyer for Berry Bros. & Rudd in London. 'It's not a great property. I wonder why there's such a fuss.'

He added that a restoration of the chateau, which he says is in 'very bad condition,' would be 'a credit to him and the village.'

The winemaking will be left to Eric Rousseau, a top Burgundian winemaker, who will lease the land and tend to the vines while giving Mr. Ng one-third of the production, expected to be between 10,000 and 12,000 bottles a year.

In Hong Kong's wine circles, Mr. Ng's new venture is making news. Vincent Cheung, a retired Hong Kong lawyer and a wine collector since the 1980s, called Mr. Ng 'one of the biggest collectors in Asia' with 'very sophisticated tastes.' He called Mr. Ng's purchase a 'clever move because it's so rare to have a chateau on your property in Burgundy.' Wine estates with large-scale living quarters are much more likely to be found than in the Bordeaux region than in Burgundy.

Mr. Ng said Hong Kong's wealthiest are congratulating him on the purchase. 'The rich tycoons are calling me,' he said. 'They all say, 'Wow, what a smart buy.' '

JASON CHOW


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